Luxor: The masterpiece of ancient Egyptian architecture
If we go to Egypt, the sights to visit are endless. In my opinion, the biggest limitation is the distance and possibly the lack of time. It's a popular choice to set up a base at a resort in a touristic city and travel from there, but before you decide, it's worth thinking through what you want to see. Luxor or Cairo can be reached by bus/car from Hurghada or Marsa Alam. You can get to the same places from Sharm El Sheikh by plane, however, it is easier to reach Mount Sinai or even go to Jordan or Israel from there (although the latter is not the safest right now). During my recent trip, I stayed in Hurghada, and I visited the wonderful Luxor as part of a full-day trip. A real 'culture bucketlister' place! I first went there about 14 years ago, as a child, but even then it enchanted me and I was sure that I would return one day. So I did! Fortunately, one of my cousins I was traveling with, Patrícia, was also interested, so we set off together. If you are planning a trip to Egypt, or more specifically to Luxor, be sure to read on to find out all the useful and important information that can help you prepare for your adventure!
"Next to the lake, there is a scarab statue. Legend has it that if we walk around it seven times counter-clockwise our wish will come true."
Since we visited Luxor in October, I was sure that even if it was going to be hot, it would still be more tolerable than the late spring, summer, or September months of continental climates. We left Hurghada at around 4 am. The passengers were collected from several hotels, and in the end, our team consisted of 14 people in total. We also had to take a mandatory 20-30 minute rest before continuing to Luxor. We had to pass through several checkpoints, but there was only one place where we were made to wait approx. for 15 minutes. It was a long journey until we got off the minibus at the first stop: the Karnak temple on the right bank of the Nile. Our guide bought our tickets and after 2 security checks, we walked towards the thousands of years old entrance. Although I haven't been to many of the places in Egypt that I really would like to see, this temple is still my favorite. Roughly 30 pharaohs contributed to its construction over a period spanning nearly a thousand years. The complex is huge, it covers approx. 100 hectares, and we would need at least a half or a full day to explore it in more detail. We didn't have that much time, so we chose one of the 3 church districts, the part dedicated to Amon. The way inside was flanked by ram-headed sphinxes on both sides. From here, even from a distance, you could see the grandiose pillars, which are an iconic part of this temple. I expected that there would be many people, but not as large a crowd as we found there. Smaller or bigger groups of tourists of various nationalities flowed down the road.
The church has a total of 10 pylons, or gates, separating the different parts, clearly dividing the expansions that start from the inside and continue towards the external areas. The grandiose colonnade, known to many, stretches between the 2nd and 3rd pylons. These huge columns, 15 and 22 meters high, once supported a roof, which has been almost completely destroyed. This is a place where I could spend hours, for me it is one of the most impressive architectural treasures of ancient Egypt I have ever seen. Interesting fact: the church also contains relics left here by Coptic Christians. That is why we can also see icons with halos on the pillars in some places. Continuing our journey, we reached the sacred lake, which is another place in this area that is dear to me. The modern era has already made its appearance in the form of a few cafes. Next to the lake, there is a scarab statue. Legend has it that if we walk around it seven times counter-clockwise our wish will come true. It lived in my memory differently. I thought that if we did this, we would come back here. Whichever is true, it is certain that I did it once and I was in Karnak again after all these years. We'll see if my current wish comes true!
I could have spent more time here, but we had to move on because we were with a group and had a fixed itinerary. After crossing the Nile, our next stop was the Colossi of Memnon. Before that, we had lunch on the other side of the river, where we had the opportunity to rest a bit, drink a coffee, and admire the other side while cooling down in the shade.
"According to the stories, after an earthquake, one of the statues began to 'sing' every morning at sunrise."
These huge seated statues, which are now known as the Colossi of Memnon, belonged to the temple of Amenhotep III. and depicted the pharaoh himself. Today, only these have survived, but the church was destroyed. According to the stories, after an earthquake, one of the statues began to 'sing' every morning at sunrise. The Greeks who visited this place wove a legend around it, connecting it to the Trojan hero, Memnon. They believed that either he was greeting his mother, the Dawn, or that we could hear his mother's crying. In reality, due to the damage caused by the earthquake, the rising temperature and the evaporating dew were likely able to produce such a sound. This stopped when the Roman emperor, Septimus Severus put the fallen northern statue back together again. This visit was much faster than the previous ones, it took us roughly 15-20 minutes.
The Valley of the Kings lived vaguely in my memories, not every detail was clear, but I was sure that it had also been modernized a lot since the last time I was there. After navigating through the bustling bazaar, we reached the ticket office. Following another routine security check, we boarded golf cart-like vehicles that transported us to the entrance of the valley. The vendors at this location were as violent as the others. I didn't even bother taking photos; I just looked straight ahead, repeatedly saying 'No, thank you.' It annoyed me a lot, but by this time, I was no longer surprised. I even tried saying the same phrase in Arabic hoping that it would be more effective (spoiler: it wasn't).
We visited the Valley of the Kings in the afternoon and it was quite warm, with zero shade. Your entrance ticket allows you to visit three tombs of your choice from those currently open. Additionally, with a supplementary ticket, you can explore the tomb of the renowned Pharaoh Tutankhamun. Our team went to the burial sites of Pharaohs Ramses I, III, and IX, descending into each chamber. Each tomb had its unique charm: the first was smaller but more vibrant, while the other two were significantly more grandiose. We descended into the tombs via steep stairs or ramps. It was quite humid, and I can only imagine how much harsher the heat would be in the summer. For those who dislike small, enclosed spaces, or are uncomfortable with crowds, heights, and steep descents, I recommend visiting these attractions with caution. Despite these challenges, the tombs are stunning and unique archaeological monuments, and if you have the chance to see them, don't miss out. We visited Tutankhamun's tomb as the last one. Since the famous treasures originally found here along with his death mask are exhibited in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, the chamber itself was not such a big deal for me. If it's not a must-see on your bucket list, you might consider skipping it.
These trips often include a visit to a papyrus-making or alabaster-carving shop. We chose the latter. Since shopping wasn't our priority, we simply strolled around, listened to their presentation, and then headed to our final destination: the Mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut. This place left the faintest impression on my memories. While I was eagerly anticipating Karnak, Patrícia was mostly excited about this site. We visited around 4-5 pm when the sunshine was not only tolerable but also quite pleasant. The story of Queen Hatshepsut is particularly fascinating. Alongside Cleopatra, she is one of the most renowned female pharaohs who ruled independently. Legend has it that she occasionally wore the ritual beard too, typically donned by male pharaohs. Her foster son, Thutmose III, succeeded her and allegedly tried to erase all traces of her reign. Despite this, Hatshepsut's legacy endured, and we can still marvel at her creations, whether it's this temple or her additions to the Karnak Temple. This site itself was breathtaking, as was the view from the top of it. I could have stayed for at least another hour, but we had to return to Hurghada at the end of our trip.
In summary, Luxor is a must-visit place when traveling to Egypt. While the Giza Plateau with its pyramids and the famous Sphinx is also a sight to be on the bucket list, Luxor offers a richer experience (I've visited both, hence the comparison). I would gladly return here anytime and hope to do so again, ideally on a self-organized trip. The excursion we took was convenient, arranged by a travel agency run by a Hungarian expatriate, featuring a Hungarian audioguide and a local English-speaking guide (Liliom Tours/Whiteshark Travel). However, the downside was the rushed daily schedule. If possible, it's better to plan the visit independently or opt for a private tour with a more flexible itinerary.
Bucketlister tips:
loose clothing, preferably long pants and a lightweight, long-sleeved shirt in which you won't feel too hot, but will protect your skin from the sun
comfortable, breathable, closed shoes (suitable for all-day walking and also can protect you from the dust)
sun protection: baseball cap/hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen are mandatory
light bag: if possible, go with a light backpack containing 1-2 bottles of water, a snack/sandwich, and 1-2 important things (if possible, leave the rest in the car/bus)
November to April is probably the most ideal time for sightseeing (the temperature can easily be over 30 degrees in October, but it's not unbearable either)
Lastly, an important detail to consider is the cost of such a trip. Prices can vary depending on the travel agency (operating legally or illegally), the departure location, and the itinerary. We booked the aforementioned tour for 75 Euros per person, which included the trip, lunch, and entrance fees, excluding Tutankhamun's tomb. Currently, prices might be higher due to recent increases by the Egyptian Tourist Authority.
Thanks for reading! Have I piqued your interest? Check out the related article and if you have any questions, write to me or leave a comment! If you found it useful, don't forget to click on the heart icon and share it with others.
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