The two faces of Egypt - what is beyond the bubble?

In October, after many years, I had the opportunity to revisit Egypt. It had been a long time since I embarked on a journey without Ádi, but I was thrilled to spend quality time with my family and create new memories together. It had been roughly 4-5 years since I last traveled with a group or visited this fascinating country. I was eager to discover what kind of experience this trip would offer, especially since I knew the dynamics of this week would differ significantly from my usual adventures. I anticipated more relaxation, a slower pace, and fewer excursions. My memories of Egypt, or rather my impressions, were quite dualistic. While this duality can be observed in many countries, it seemed particularly pronounced here. On one hand, there is the comfort and luxury provided to tourists, with every need catered to by the hotels. On the other hand, there is the stark contrast of garbage, filth, deep poverty, and the isolation of foreigners within a bubble. My intention with this article is not to cast a negative light on a country dear to my heart, but to present it as I experienced it.

As an experienced bucketlister, I had a clear idea of what to expect and was determined to seize every opportunity to step outside the typical tourist bubble and gather as many (near) authentic experiences as possible. Instead of seeking out new adventures, I chose to revisit some of the beautiful places I had seen long ago. My first excursion took me to the mountains near Hurghada with my cousins. We visited a Bedouin village as part of a quad safari. The term ‘Bedouin’ means ‘desert-dweller’ in Arabic, and this ethnic group originates from the Arabian Peninsula. They lead a nomadic lifestyle in the desert, raising animals and occasionally engaging in agriculture. Tourism often plays a significant role in supporting their settlement and livelihood. After mounting the quads and leaving the base behind, we set off towards a relatively new village, established roughly two years ago. Upon our arrival, we were immediately guided to the camels tended by the Bedouin women, where we enjoyed a brief ride in exchange for a small tip. There were also opportunities to purchase handmade items or refreshments from the local ‘shop’. At first glance, the village appeared entirely authentic. We could observe the traditional buildings and attire of the inhabitants. The villagers were kind and friendly, yet maintained a certain distance. However, when I noticed familiar bracelets from the bazaars and cold Coca-Cola being served at the ‘shop’, I began to question the authenticity of the experience. Was this village genuinely traditional, or was it crafted for tourists? I believe the reality lies somewhere in between. It was a curious blend, showcasing how modernity and tourism infiltrate traditional communities and their way of life. Despite this, the experience was enjoyable. I relished the quad ride, didn’t mind the sand and dust, and found the scenery breathtaking.

" If someone asked me what Egypt means to me, I would say THIS."

When planning the trip with my cousin, I was certain that I didn’t want to miss visiting Luxor again, which was a full-day excursion from Hurghada. This adventure revealed another face of the country. Every time I travel to Egypt, I am fascinated, captivated, and dazzled by the historical treasures found here. Walking among the grandiose columns of the Karnak Temple allows us to get closer to the ancient Egyptian civilization. The meticulous details of the hieroglyphs, the architectural marvels, and the tireless work of archaeologists have made it possible for us to witness these millennia-old structures. What makes Luxor truly special is the concentration of unique sites in close proximity. Besides Karnak, there are the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, and Hatshepsut’s Mortuary Temple. Not to mention, crossing the Nile is part of the journey too. If someone asked me what Egypt means to me, I would say THIS. I have always loved history, and the civilization of ancient Egypt has always been one of my favorites, so I will always be eager to return (and hope to have the opportunity again). However, it was somewhat disturbing and unpleasant to encounter vendors who rudely and sometimes aggressively tried to sell their wares wherever we went. In my memories, it wasn’t this intense; I think the dynamics may have changed in recent years.

Conversely, when we strolled through the bazaar lines near the hotels, we encountered much friendlier vendors—understandably so. Here, a good sense of humor was an integral part of the bargaining process. Vendors often jokingly referred to us as the mafia, offered camels in exchange for beautiful young ladies, and on one occasion, my father even gave away one of his slippers to negotiate a lower price. These vendors greeted us warmly on subsequent visits, inquired about our well-being, and sometimes offered us tea (naturally, to encourage more purchases). My parents were also recognized in many places and greeted as old acquaintances, as they travel there almost every year.

"Is it entirely authentic? Most probably not, but it’s authentic enough for me."

All I want to convey is that if our journey takes us to Egypt, we should be prepared for what to expect. Everyone seeks different experiences and has their way of traveling, and that’s perfectly fine. Some are content with a trip organized by a travel agency, enjoying the comfort of the hotel, purchasing a couple of Chanel or Gucci bag replicas, and picking up a few magnets from the bazaars. For me, however, the goal is to get closer to an authentic experience, to immerse myself in the rich culture and history. This means visiting famous ancient sites, learning about the country’s history, and savoring local cuisine. It also includes stepping into a perfume shop, where, over tea and laughter, I haggle for something I hadn’t even planned to buy. In the end, I might also pay more than it’s worth, but I still feel like I’ve struck a good deal. These are the positive experiences I seek. Is it entirely authentic? Most probably not, but it’s authentic enough for me.

Additionally, there is a side of Egypt that becomes apparent when we stop or pass by the numerous military checkpoints during our trips. Looking out of the car, we see armored vehicles and weapons protruding from the windows. We also witness scenes such as a young girl with a toddler in her lap, sitting on the ground under a street lamp, selling bracelets. It no longer surprises me when little children in the bazaars show me bags and sunglasses in at least two languages. We can see a lot of garbage on the streets, abandoned buildings, people living in poverty, and those who sell postcards on the banks of the Nile to earn their daily income. By observing carefully during our travels, we can see that, no matter what we do, we inevitably end up in a more or less clearly defined bubble. In my experience, breaking out of this bubble in Egypt is not easy, and it becomes even more challenging if we opt for organized travel.

I find Egypt fascinating, despite—or perhaps because of—its complexities. For history enthusiasts, visiting key locations like Luxor or Giza offers a true journey through time. The vibrant mix of people from different backgrounds and religions creates a unique and special atmosphere. However, be prepared for an experience that differs from what you might have seen online or on Viasat History. While you can have the experiences of a lifetime, stepping out of your comfort zone can bring many surprises.

This is Egypt in its entirety! It is dual, mystical, and beautiful, yet it also reveals the harsh realities of life. It remains a beloved place for me, but I think that next time, I would definitely like to experience it through an individual trip.

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